Like the neighborhood of Vinohrady it is nestled into, Osmicka is quietly refined and elegant.

The appetizers we tried – bland French Onion Soup and doughy onion rings – were disappointing but everything else made up for it.

I was offered shark steak the night I was there as the daily special, the first time I’ve seen such an offering in Prague, and it was delicious. The other notable of the evening was the Turkey Casserole with spinach and crabmeat in broccoli sauce.

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The service is friendly, quick and attentive. The interior of the basement space is an attractive but unpretentious combination of terracotta walls, dark furniture and hanging Art Deco mini-chandeliers. Essentially a Czech restaurant that is humbly more than knedliky and rizek, Osmicka invites you to look deeper.

Balbinova Ulice, Prague 2, Tel: +420 2 2282 6888, Fax:  +420 2 2282 6211, Metro: Jiriho z Podebrad, I.P. Pavlova (Line C) Trams 4, 6, 10, 16, 22, 23, 51, 56, 57, Open Hours: 11am-midday Mon-Fri; midday-midnight Sat; midday-11pm Sun

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