Tags: Japanese | seafood | sushi

A Japanese restaurant in the heart of a medieval Bohemian quarter might seem a little bit out of place, but make no mistake; Koto is no Japanese restaurant, or if it is, they've mastered the fine Czech art of complete and total disdain for their customers.

On my first visit to this joint, tucked away behind a tacky crystal shop and a mini foto lab, I thought I might have discovered a hidden gem, and the entry area did impart a feeling of serenity, unlike the crowded street it lives on.

It was a sunny Saturday afternoon, and I stopped by to make a reservation and to see if I could get a copy of the menu.

As I stood there at the glass door, a lady I assume was the manager, looked up at me from her table and shot me a look of total annoyance, as if to say 'Go away, scum!' I stood there, looking at her, unbelieving and finally shrugged, '...and what?'

Realizing I wasn't going away, she grumbled something to her co-worker and approached the door. Unlocking it, she told me brusquely in Czech 'Zavzeno' (closed). I started to explain in passable Czech that I just wanted to make a reservation, but she told me they were closed again and locked the door without another word.

Now normally, for me, that would be the end of my desire to review the place, but I had two things working against me; she probably thought I was just a stupid tourist, but I'm not, I'm stubborn as an old babicka in a bread line, and secondly, I really, really miss Japanese food.

So, popping in with a friend a week later, I was seated at a table that looked more hospoda than bento bar, although the place does have a lovely Tatami Room, which was actually designed by a Japanese architect, Osamu Okamura. It's sadly only available with a reservation. After the usual request for drinks, I ordered a beer and considered the offerings.

That's when I started to get the point of this place, which is to fleece the fat little tourist who waddle in from Charles Bridge. But for the money, I have to admit, you do get a good portion of quality food. Seeing as money is no object these dot.com.daze, I started off with the Chirashi Sushi (480Kc), also known as "scattered sushi" in which the rice and ingredients are casually mixed together. Sake-Sashimi (280Kc), sliced raw salmon is excellent, and I quite enjoyed the taste.

Being from the west coast, I was curious to try the yose-nabe (assorted ingredients in a hot pot, 900Kc), popular amongst us foreigners, and usually when I order something like this my Japanese friends just shake their heads and order grilled fish and something a la carte. With some appetite left, we ordered the seafood option, with chicken and vegetables in a soup that they cook right on the table.

Nice!

As the meal wore on, I felt almost like I could forgive the rudeness, but the coldness as we paid and left made me doubt that, and in closing, all I can say is that if I wanted rude service at a restaurant, there's the perfect little pub in Zizkov where they throw the menu at you and then ignore you until you make a scene, but, unlike here, it won't set you back too much dinero!